Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Mais fotografias

This is the group Didá as they get ready to play the streets of the Pelourinho. That´s Negrinho in front.

This is picturesque part of town, where everyone stands and takes pictures, as you can see.

Like this one!

Can you see the old guy in the background covering his ears from the noise? HILARIOUS! Pobrecinho velho!

Monday, May 26, 2008

Didá

Because Salvador´s population is predominantly negro yet the wealth belongs to those of European descent (sounds familiar, huh?), many organizations have been started that empower the negro population here, one of which is Didá, led by Negrinho and Vivian. This group gives to young black girls a skill--music, mainly drums--that allows them to find renewed self-esteem, control over their lives, and an alternatives to the drugs and prostitution that run rampant in the poorer neighborhoods in Salvador. Through our school we had a chance to visit the organization and listen to an amazing talk by Vivian, and then Neginho led the girls through the streets of the Pelourinho neighborhood. The place came alive. Everyone followed them through the maze of streets, pulled by the heavy beat of the drums and the huge grins on the girls´ faces.



(PS: I´m trying to get more pictures up here, but there are numerous technical difficulties and SLOW connections since I´m working at Internet cafes. More to come...)

Sunday, May 25, 2008

Os banheiros mais pior do mundo!

When I moved to Austin and had to stop in every gas station between Southern California and Cowboy Texas I vowed that I would never use a public restroom again due to the conditions of those said "bathrooms". I have found a new level of hell here in Brazil. Since in most bathrooms in all of Latin America you can´t flush the toilet paper down the toilet because the system will clog (remeber this if you ever travel there outside of a resort area) there is a wastebasket for the collection of toilet paper that inevitably accumulates. That along with the lack of...health codes (oh, the beauty of living in clean California!)...turns the bathrooms here into cesspools, dreaded places where you hope you can hold your breath long enough to survive and where you hope the pull cord (yes, pull cord) and the lock are clean, obvious, and functioning. I have mastered the hover. Worst bathrooms ever!

Thursday, May 22, 2008

A familia brasileira

I spent the first night at my family´s house. There´s the mother Terezinha, her sister Josa Maria, and the daughter Vanessa. Ironically enough, the other boarder here who is studying at a different language school is a Colombian girl from Medellin. Small world.

In the picture is minha mãe Terezinha, me, Brian another student at ACBEU, and his mãe Angêlica. The two mothers are like sisters so we´re one big happy familiy...I think.

The room where I´m staying until the Colombian Andrea leaves looks right out onto the street where there´s always action going on. I woke up this morning to a bustle of activity and a buzz of Portuguese. I´ve been speaking a lot but it´s hard not to default back to Spanish since the languages are so similar. It´s pretty astounding how much I can understand. All of our instructions and tours have been given in Portuguese, and classes start on Monday. I have trouble understanding my mãe and her sister because they speak so fast, and they´re not necessarily conscientious of speaking more slowly around learners of the languages. After 6 weeks, though, I´m sure I´ll have the hang of it.

So, Salvador. It´s right on the tip of a peninsula so the waves on the ocean are generally very calm. I haven´t yet been to the beach but I´m sure it´s in my future relatively soon. I´ll show you my Brazilian tan lines when I get back.

It´s the original capital city of Brazil, when the Portuguese were busy colonizing the area, killing the indigenous, bringing over slaves from Africa, and dominating the New World with sugar cane crops. After gold was discovered further south in the...16th century?...the capital was moved to Rio de Janeiro, and Salvador entered into a period of decline, from which it is still suffering. Of all the areas in the "New World", Salvador has most pristinely maintained it´s African heritage. Over 80% of the population is negro, a word of pride here unlike in the US, and the religion of Candomblé is widely celebrated all around the region. Portuguese Catholicism also has a heavy presence, and the division most likely rests of lines of color.

This is the Farol da Barra, or the lighthouse of the Barra. The beach just to the north (right) is the most well known of the area and is called Praia Porto da Barra. However, they say, my family and the people from ACBEU, that the beach south and around the bay heading out into the Atlantic are more beautiful. There are lots of little bars and restaurants on the side streets that run through the neighborhood, a few of which I have already frequented :)

Another shot of the bay.

This elevator takes one from the older upper city or Cidade Alta with the newer Cidade Baixa. When the Portuguese first settled they built higher on land to avoid attacks from various enemies including the Dutch. Then the city was expanded. Behind the elevator (which I have not taken yet, but I was informed that on the lower level there are impromtu bookstores that sell a very specific kind of Baiana literature called cordel that I must go get. Mom, you might be gettting a packing from me of stuff I can´t carry around) is the older and rejuvenated part of the city called Pelourinho, which I think literally means whipping post, as in for slaves. Today we took a tour of the city (which is how I acquired all this fascinating information about the city) and were showed a private pelourinho in an old home of the era, as well as the ancient space for the public whipping post. The building now has been renamed for the famous Baiano author Jorge Amado. It was a bit unnerving. The area of Pelourinho is a winding maze of cobblestone streets with 17th and 18th century baroque buildings that now house fancy restaurants and art galleries, souvenir shops, nooks and pathways that lead to hidden plazas, a arte-cinema house that once showed the now famous Brazilian movie Cidade de Deus, which I don´t recommend that anyone watch until I get back.

I´ll post these pictures later because it´s late and I have SCHOOL! in the morning.

Até breve e muita obrigada por sua atenção.

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Já chegei!

Oi gente, if only my life were series of international flights.
Humble people dressed in uniform passing out little hot towels with miniature plastic tongs.
Ceilings taller than my own in various apartments.
Wood floors in the bathroom (!)
Free movies (I don´t recommend Jumper)
Instant meals delivered to my reclining seat.
Free miniature toothbrush, toothpaste, and comb delivered to me by aforementioned humble smiling people.
Free booze!

I left Austin at 11 am, actually a little later due to a delay of course. Touched down in JFK at 4:30. Grabbed my overstuffed backpack and trekked to one of many international terminals at the NYC airport. Pushed my way through the madness at check-in as people coming and going from all over the world struggled to get to their destinations on time. I got to people watch at JFK for a bit and then boarded the largest plane I´ve ever seen. Daunting. I still don´t know how they got that thing off the ground. But they did, and we suspended from the sky for 10 hours and we headed from New York to São Paulo, Brazil. When passing out the visa forms on the plane, the flight attendant actually asked me if I was a Brazilian citizen! And then I spoke and she knew the answer was no. At GRU airport in São Paulo, I caught a glance of the amazing Brazilian city, with its reputation of fashion, food, and a cosmopolitan lifestyle. Huge loops of smog clogged the pristine horizon, shading part of the city from my perspective. I feel more secure in my decision not to visit there. At the airport, I only had 2 hours to go through customs and immigration, grab my bag, run upstairs and recheck my bag, go through another round of security and race to my gate, where of course the flight was running late anyway. But I made it on the short connecting flight to Salvador without incident besides a grumbly tummy from the airplane food and travel fatigue.

I´ve since settled into the Hotel Tropical da Bahia on Avenida Sete de Setembro (Avenue 7th of September). Since most of us were starved from traveling we ventured out onto the street and found a little churrasco/pizzeria where we gorged on all sorts of grilled meats: a specialty of Brazilian cuisine. Good thing I´m not a vegetarian. The waiter was very patient and nice with our faulty Portuguese, but we got our order out and ate deliciously. On the walk back to the hotel the streets are filled with vendors selling various fruits and vegetables--papaya, maracuya, mango, tomate de arbol (in Spanish at least, not sure what they´re called in Portuguese)--as well as fresh fish caught from the ocean just blocks from the hotel. They were being filleted and de-scaled right there on the street. We haven´t had a chance to walk down naby if these parts yet, but most of us will be living in this area with our host families, who we´ll meet tomorrow afternoon. There is a beautiful plaza right across the street from the hotel, and if I can get up early enough tomorrow morning, after getting a much needed night of sleep, maybe I´ll head over there to read the newspaper.
Tonight, the host from ACEBEU, the language school where we are studying, will be meeting us at the hotel for dinner and probably just making sure we´re ok. Tomorrow we have an orientation and a tour of the city and whatnot. We´ll be meeting our families as well, and then staying with them after that.
More later. Até breve!
PS: These two pictures were not taken by me so don´t think I´m this amazing photographer. You can thank the internet, but I thought I´d give you an idea of what it all looks like.

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Chomping at the bit


S l o w l y counting down the days...5 4 3 2 1...until I leave. In the meantime, I'm busy saying goodbye:

to the friends who I've made and who are leaving

to the next era of my life, and the first of this city, that has ended; it happened so fast; 9 months and 1 era done? I guess I'm keeping busy; it's been hard


a bit to Austin, not the hot summer and not the giant insects, but yes to this new and temporary home




And it all begins again, putting my stuff in storage,
becoming restless and nomadic, homeless in the least pejorative way (or perhaps the most). Restless and nomadic? Bored and unstable? I'll let you know another day.





Still chomping...

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Dois Irmãos

On July 14, I will hopefully begin volunteering at an NGO: non-government organization (ONG: organização não governo) called Dois Irmãos or Two Brothers located in the heart of Brazil: Rio de Janeiro. If you click on the image, you can go to their website for more info.


I worked with one of the organizers, Paul Sneed, and his wife Jeyla dos Reis, at San Diego State University during my initial Portuguese classes, and am excited to lend a hand to their organization. I will hopefully be renting a room/apartment with a friend of mine from Austin who will also be traveling to Rio during the summer. Or I'll have a chance to live in the favela (Brazilian "ghetto") with other volunteers if I choose. Rocinha, the favela where i2i is situated, is the largest and most established favela in Rio, if not in all of Brazil. It's the first (and only?) favela to actually have a bus line that runs through it, so it's at least partially recognized by the government. While there, I may be teaching English or Spanish, or maybe computer skills. The ONG offers educational opportunities to kids who otherwise might not have them due to poverty.

More details later.

Saturday, May 10, 2008

Translation

Hey, isn't it fun that I can make everything in Portuguese? Except now no one knows how to do anything.

To post comments:
  1. click on "_ comentários" at the end of the post. A new window will open up.
  2. "Faça um comentário" means "Post a comment". Type something in the window. Hopefully something pleasant and loving, but whatever's on your mind, I guess.
  3. Choose your identity. If you have a blog you can use your blog name. Since most of you don't (or you might and I don't know about it??) then click on "Open ID" and you can type in a name. If you want to say something mean then you can use an anonymous ID, but I'll eventually find out who you are...I have my sources.
  4. If you want to see your comment before you publish it, click on "Visualizar". When you're ready to take the plunge and make it official, click on "Publicar Comentário". Your comment will be linked to the post for all to see.
  5. If you have something more private to say, just email me.
  6. If you're nosy and want to read the comments, click on the same "_ comentários" link.

To subscribe to the blog so you're kept up to the second! on all the exciting things happening
  1. go to the end of the page and click on "Postagens (Atom)" next to Assinar. I don't really know what that means.
  2. But then you can choose how you receive notice that something has happened. Never done this before.
  3. Maybe someone can comment (see above) on what this all does.

Até logo!

Friday, May 9, 2008

Pre-brasilified


Just so there's no confusion, here's the scoop:

I'm leaving Austin at 11 am on Monday the 19th to arrive at JFK, freak out for a few hours in the airport, and then I get on a TAM airline at around 8 pm to arrive in São Paulo the following morning (eek! a 10 hour flight!). Then I leave at 8:30 to arrive in Salvador da Bahia where I'll be picked up by the head of the language program there along with the rest of the students.


Until then, feel free to stop by to help me pack and move...just kidding. Só uma brincadeira.